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What you should know about a compact loader

Can you imagine having to limit the job site tools you need because of availability?

Nowadays, you don’t have to wait for a tool to be available, they’re everywhere you look.

When you’re trying to match a tool to a job, there are some things you need to keep in mind.

There are different types of loaders out there.

Let’s break it down, shall we?

What kind of loader is this? Simple.

It’s a loader that is closely related to the skid-steer.

Keep in mind these loaders use all four of their wheels to steer, so they’re perfect for jobs that need a little versatility.

This type of loader offers low ground pressure.

It’s a helpful loader to get through those hard road conditions (or where there may not even be a road).

For simplicity reasons, this loader is simple and does what the name says it does.

The great part of a skid steer loader is the cab often adds new levels of comfort. Imagine heat and air conditioning while you finish an outside job.

Don’t let the name scare you because this mini loader can do a lot that other loaders cannot do.

Because it’s a “mini” loader, it can go almost anywhere you need it to go.

Know what kind of work conditions you’re dealing with.

  • The type of compact loader you will choose depends on what kind of conditions you’ll be working under.

If it boils down to a paved surface, skid-steer and all-wheel-steer loaders are going to be your best choice.

This is because these types of loaders do well on paved surfaces.

  • When you need something dug and loaded, you’ll want to consider the other loaders available.

For the wet and muddy situations, compact truck loaders are your best bet.

Know what your lifting and digging needs boil down to.

The type of compact loader you choose will also boil down to what kind of lifting and digging needs you have.

Your loader will either have a radius lift path or a vertical lift path.
When choosing a compact loader with a vertical lift path, the loader has the potential to easily clear anything you need done at a full height.

When looking at a radius lift path compact loader, you are going to find these trucks are great for jobs where the working height is at lower or middle height ranges.

Owning a compact loader versus renting one

When it comes to owning a compact loader versus renting, it boils down to how often you use it.

If you’re only going to use it once, it makes more sense to rent it.

However, if you’re going to be using it more often, you will get a return of investment much quicker!

And, if your engine ever breaks down, remember that Advanced Engine is here to fix it.

Should I replace my Kubota Engine or Repair my Kubota Engine?

Ultimately the decision to replace or repair your Kubota Engine comes down to three main factors:

(1) What is causing the Kubota engine failure?

(2) Do you want to hire the replacement / repair out to Advanced Engine, or do it yourself.

(3) What is it going to cost you in terms of time and dollars.

In this blog post, we will address each of this factors independently.

Engine Valve Head Fracture at Stem To Head Radius

Head Fracture - Valve Fracture at Stem to Head Radius - Advanced Engine

Understanding Engine Valve Head Failure

One of the most common engine valve head fractures is the failure at stem to head radius. This is very important to remember because since the least common result of valve failure is the valve itself, you must always make sure you can identify the root cause of a fracture prior to replacing the engine valve (s).

While a small part compared to a whole engine, a valve stem fracture (VSF) will typically results in considerable and costly engine damage. This is especially true for double overhead cam, four valve per cylinder engine designs.
The majority of VSFs are due to one way bending, although two way bending and reversed bending by rotation will also sometime occur. As mentioned earlier, the most common stem fracture appears as a valve head to stem breakage in the region of the junction of the head radius and the stem , see Photo 1.
Head Fracture - Valve Fracture at Stem to Head Radius - Advanced Engine

Photo 1. Typical valve stem fracture at the underhead radius and stem junction. The stem fracture face is
usually in good condition, while the valve head fracture face is typically too damaged to be of use.

Photo 1. Typical valve stem fracture at the under-head radius and stem junction. The stem fracture face is usually in good condition, while the valve head fracture face is typically too damaged to be of use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What about a Engine Valve Head Fractures At Stem On A Welded 2 Piece Design?

Even when the stem is a welded two piece design, this type of fracture does not occur at the weld, but typically closer down towards the head. The stem is often drawn up into the head and the fracture face remains undamaged, while the valve head typically drops into the cylinder and is too damaged for the fracture face to provide evidence.

 

As a result, we at Advanced Engine can determine the cause of valve stem fracture is rarely a manufacturing or materials fault and nearly always an operational fault.
Some of the this that will cause this type of VSF are all mechanical, including wear and breakage, which have nothing to do with the combustion chamber environment.

 

The Top 3 Most Common Causes for Engine Valve Head Fracture at Stem To Head Radius

  • Excessive spring pressure
  • Piston to valve contact bending valve
  • Excessive seat to guide roll-out.

These breaks at the stem are diagnosed as “Impact Failure” , meaning there is an appearance of an impact as the starting point of the break. This types of breaks are sudden, or “Fatigue Failure” which means that the material got weaker overtime, types  after thousands of cycles, starting out small and eventually breaking.

Other Engine Valve Head Fracture at Stem To Head Radius Causes:

  • Engine overspeed.
  • Incorrect valve timing.
  • Sticking valve stem.

Why are some exhaust manifold gaskets slotted?

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets Advanced Engine Fel-Pro

Engine Tech Tips : Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

Overview: Have you every wondered why some exhaust manifold gaskets have slots? This video from Fel-Pro with blog commentary from Advanced Engine tells you why.

The Advanced Engine Challenge:

Sometimes as part of a repair you will need to remove the exhaust manifold. While a fairly simple task to do, putting it all back together could take a bit longer then you want. Slotted exhaust manifolds like the ones from Fel-Pro make it easier to slide the exhaust manifold gasket into place without having to deal will aligning the bolts, gasket and manifold.

The Advanced Engine Solution:

The slots on the edge of the Fel-Pro Exhaust gasket allow you to put two bolts in place first. And, then slide the gasket in. This saves time, energy, and frustration. To see it in action watch the video below compliments of Fel-Pro. And remember, if you have questions about exhaust manifold gaskets, or Engine Repair in general, please do not hesitate to contact Advanced Engine.

Ask Advanced Engine: Engine Balancing, Is it really necessary?

Why is Engine Balancing Important?

Whether your application is internal, external, 28 or 50 oz., the balance of an engine depends on the original factory requirements; however, it is possible to build a combination with the balance of an engine different than how it came from the factory. It is important that you know your engine balancing options before making any component purchases.

Engine balancing goes hand-in-hand with performance engine building. Balancing your engine reduces internal loads and vibrations that stress metal and may eventually lead to component failure. However, is it worth the time and effort for mild performance applications, everyday passenger car engines or low-buck engine rebuilds?

From a technical point of view, every engine regardless of the application or its selling price can benefit from balancing. A smoother-running engine is also a more powerful engine; less energy is wasted by the crank as it thrashes about in its bearings, which translates into a little more usable power at the flywheel. Reducing engine vibration also reduces stress on motor mounts and external accessories, and in big over-the-road trucks, the noise and vibration the driver has to endure mile after mile.

What factors effect engine balancing?

Though all engines are balanced from the factory [some to a better degree than others], the original balance is lost when the pistons, connecting rods or crankshaft are replaced or interchanged with those from other engines. The factory balance job is based on the reciprocating weight of the OE pistons and rods. If any replacements or substitutions are made, there’s no guarantee the new or reconditioned parts will match the weights of the original parts closely enough to retain the original balance. Most aftermarket replacement parts are “balanced” to the average weight of the OEM parts, which may or may not be close enough to maintain a reasonable degree of balance inside the engine. Aftermarket crank kits are even worse and can vary considerably because of variations within engine families. If the cylinders are worn and a block needs to be bored to oversize, the larger replacement pistons may be heavier than the original ones. Some piston manufacturers take such differences into account when engineering replacement pistons and try to match “average” OE weights. But others do not.

Most high performance pistons are designed to be lighter than the OE pistons to reduce reciprocating weight for faster acceleration and higher rpm. Consequently, when pistons and rods are replaced there’s no way of knowing if balance is still within acceptable limits unless you check it.

If you’re building a stock engine for a passenger car or light truck that will spend most of its life loafing along at low rpm, your customer might question the value of balancing such an engine. But if you the customer value durability and smooth operation, the decision to balance should not be too difficult.

On the other hand, if you’re building a performance engine, a stroker engine or an engine that’s expected to turn a lot of RPM or run a lot of miles, balancing is an absolute must. No engine is going to survive long at high RPM if it’s out of balance. And no engine is going to last in a high mileage application if the crank is bending and flexing because of static or dynamic imbalances.

Forces in Action

To better understand the mechanics of engine  balancing, let’s look at the theory behind it. As everybody knows, a rotating object generates “centripetal force.” Centripetal force is an actual force or load generated perpendicular to the direction of rotation. Tie a rope to a brick and twirl it around and you’ll feel the pull of centripetal force generated by the “unbalanced” weight of the brick. The faster you spin it, the harder it pulls. In fact, the magnitude of the force increases exponentially with speed. Double the speed and you quadruple the force.

The centripetal force created by a crankshaft imbalance will depend upon the amount of imbalance and distance from the axis of rotation (which is expressed in units of grams, ounces or ounce-inches). A crankshaft with only two ounce-inches of imbalance at 2,000 rpm will be subjected to a force of 14.2 lbs. At 4,000 rpm, the force grows to 56.8 lbs.! Double the speed again to 8,000 rpm and the force becomes 227.2 lbs.

This may not sound like much when you consider the torque loads placed upon the crankshaft by the forces of combustion. But centripetal imbalance is not torque twisting the crank. It is a sideways deflection force that tries to bend the crank with every revolution. Depending on the magnitude of the force, the back and forth flexing can eventually pound out the main bearings or induce stress cracks that can cause the crank to snap.

Centripetal force should not be confused with “centrifugal” force, which is the tendency of an object to continue in a straight trajectory when released while rotating. Let go of the rope while you’re twirling the brick and the brick will fly off in a straight line.

As long as the amount of centripetal force is offset by an equal force in the opposite direction, an object will rotate with no vibration. Tie a brick on each end of a yardstick and you can twirl it like a baton because the weight of one brick balances the other. If we’re talking about a flywheel, the flywheel will spin without wobbling as long as the weight is evenly distributed about the circumference. A heavy spot at any one point, however, will create a vibration because there’s no offsetting weight to balance out the centripetal force.

Every object wants to rotate about its own center of gravity. Toss a chunk of irregular shaped metal into the air while giving it a spin and it will automatically rotate about its exact center of gravity. If the chunk of metal happens to be a flywheel, the center of gravity should be the flywheel’s axis. As long as the center of gravity for the flywheel and the center of rotation on the crankshaft coincide, the flywheel will spin without vibrating. But if there’s a heavy spot on the flywheel, or if the flywheel isn’t mounted dead center on the crank, the center of gravity and axis of rotation will be misaligned and the resulting imbalance will create a vibration.

Physics Applied

How does all this scientific jargon translate into the real dynamics of a spinning crankshaft? A crankshaft, like a flywheel, is a heavy rotating object. What’s more, it also has a bunch of piston and rod assemblies reciprocating back and forth along its axis that greatly complicate the problem of keeping everything in balance.

With inline four and six cylinder engines, and flat horizontally opposed fours and sixes (like Porsche and Subaru), all pistons move back and forth in the same plane and are typically phased 180° apart so crankshaft counterweights are not needed to balance the reciprocating components. Balance can be achieved by carefully weighing all the pistons, rods, wrist pins, rings and bearings, then equalizing them to the lightest weight.

On V6, V8, V10 and V12 engines, it’s a different story because the pistons are moving in different planes. This requires crankshaft counterweights to offset the reciprocating weight of the pistons, rings, wrist pins and upper half of the connecting rods.

The difference between Internal vs. External Engine Balancing

With “internally balanced” engines, the counterweights themselves handle the job of offsetting the reciprocating mass of the pistons and rods. “Externally balanced” engines, on the other hand, have additional counterweights on the flywheel and/or harmonic damper to assist the crankshaft in maintaining balance. Some engines have to be externally balanced because there isn’t enough clearance inside the crankcase to handle counterweights of sufficient size to balance the engine. This is true of engines with longer strokes and/or large displacements.

If you’re rebuilding an engine that is internally balanced, the flywheel and damper have no effect on engine balance and can be balanced separately. But with externally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper must be mounted on the crank prior to balancing. You should find out what type of engine balance you have (internal or external), and be cautious about indexing the position of the flywheel if you have to remove it later for resurfacing. Owners of externally balanced engines should also learn about installing different flywheels or harmonic dampers and how it can upset balance.

In recent years, the auto makers have added balance shafts to many four and six cylinder engines to help cancel out crankshaft harmonics. The counter-rotating balance shaft helps offset vibrations in the crank created by the firing sequence of the engine. On these motors, make sure the balance shaft is correctly “phased” or timed to the rotation of the crank. If the shaft is out of sync, it will amplify rather than diminish engine vibrations. Balance shafts are not a substitute for normal engine balancing, nor do they reduce the vibration and stress the crankshaft itself experiences as it turns.

The process of balancing begins by equalizing the reciprocating mass in each of the engine’s cylinders. This is done by weighing each piston on a sensitive digital scale to determine the lightest one in a set. The other pistons are then lightened to match that weight by milling or grinding metal off a non-stressed area such as the wrist pin boss. The degree of precision to which the pistons are balanced will vary from one engine builder to another, and depends to some extent on the application. But generally speaking pistons are balanced to within plus or minus 0.5 grams of one another. Next the rods are weighed, but only one end at a time. A special support is used so that the big ends of all the rods can be weighed and compared, then the little ends. As with the pistons, weights are equalized by grinding away metal to within 0.5 grams. It’s important to note that the direction of grinding is important. Rods should always be ground in a direction perpendicular to the crankshaft and wrist pin, never parallel. If the grinding scratches are parallel to the crank, they may concentrate stress causing hairline cracks to form.

On V6 and V8 engines, the 60 or 90 degree angle between the cylinder banks requires the use of “bob weights” on the rod journals to simulate the reciprocating mass of the piston and rod assemblies. Inline four and six cylinder crankshafts do not require bob weights. To determine the correct weight for the bob weights, the full weight of a pair of rod bearings and the big end of the connecting rod, plus half the weight of the little end of the rod, piston, rings, wrist pin (and locks if full floating) plus a little oil are added together (100 percent of the rotating weight plus 50 percent of the reciprocating weight). The correct bob weights are then assembled and mounted on the crankshaft rod journals.

The crankshaft is then placed on the balancer and spun to determine the points where metal needs to be added or removed. The balancer indexes the crank and shows the exact position and weight to be added or subtracted. The electronic brain inside the balancer head does the calculations and displays the results. The machines we have use graphical displays that make it easy to see exactly where the corrections are needed. If the crank is heavy, metal is removed by drilling or grinding the counterweights. Drilling is usually the preferred means of lightening counterweights, and a balancer that allows the crank to be drilled while still on the machine can be a real time saver.

If the crank is too light, which is usually the case on engines with stroker cranks or those that are being converted from externally balanced to internally balanced, heavy metal (a tungsten alloy that is 1.5 times as heavy as lead) is added to the counterweights. This is usually done by drilling the counterweights, then press fitting and welding the heavy metal plugs in place. An alternate technique is to tap the hole and thread a plug into place. Drilling the holes sideways through the counterweights parallel to the crank rather than perpendicular to the crank is a technique many prefer because it prevents the metal from being flung out at high rpm.

After drilling, the crankshaft is again spun on the balancer to determine if additional corrections are required. If the crank is for an externally balanced engine (such as a big block Chevy), the balancing will be done with the flywheel and damper installed. On internally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper can be balanced separately, or installed on the crank and balanced as an assembly once the crank itself has been balanced.

New machinery has been introduced that both simplifies the balancing process and increases the accuracy of the job. Electronic equipment that allows accurate measurement of not only the amount of unbalance force, but also accurately reports the unbalanced vector position is now available to engine rebuilders. Typically, balancing machines have assumed that the unbalance force was equally opposed, so they would require the technician to correct the excessive amounts of unbalance on the excess side to the point of making them equal. Technicians have had to “stair-step” the corrections equally until the final tolerance was attained.

Technology such as the latest engine balancing machines available eliminates this requirement. Software and hardware are combined to allow radical differences to be reported at each end of the crankshaft (including any rotational positioning or vector position of the unbalanced force). Because the position and unbalance amounts are reported correctly the technician can make changes to the crankshaft with confidence that he will not over shoot the correction. In most cases the required cycles of analysis and correction are reduced by 80 to 90 percent.

The unbalance amount and position are imported into a special computer program called “Heavy Metal Analysis” (HMA). This program allows the technician to plot the position and amount of material that will be required to correct the crankshaft. The program lets rebuilders create multiple scenarios based on rotation and radius position, weight amounts and sizes of Mallory – all of which can be simulated without having to cut the first chip.

How long does it take to balance an engine?

How long does it take to actually balance an engine? A typical Chevy small block V8 might take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half depending on how much work is needed and the degree of accuracy you’re trying to achieve. You’re obviously going to spend more time on a motor that’s going into a NASCAR Winston Cup car than one that’s going into Grandma’s grocery getter.

Though a balancing accuracy of plus or minus one gram is typically good enough for most production street engines, many balancers today can achieve balancing accuracies in the tenths or even hundredths of a gram!

The most time-consuming part of the job is weighing and matching the pistons and rods. A four cylinder engine takes half as much time for this step as a V8. The next most time consuming part is making up the bob weights for a V6 or V8. This step isn’t needed with a straight six or four. The actual setup on the machine takes only a few minutes, and the initial spin and readings take only a couple of minutes more. The time required to perform the necessary weight corrections will depend on the crank (weight removal goes much faster than adding weight). And if you’ve done your work carefully, the final spin will require no further corrections because the balance of the engine will be right on the mark.

If you have any questions about engine balancing, please do not hesitate to contact Advanced Engine – Your engine rebuilder resource (574) 784-8267

See Advanced Engine in Action

At Advanced Engine, we sell new Isuzu and Perkins engines, completely remanufactured Kubota engines, as well as, OEM Kubota engine parts.

Your Premier Indiana Kubota Engine Dealer

Indiana Kubota dealer

Premier Indiana Kubota Engine Dealer

Summer is finally here!

I think everyone had a long hard winter.

Spring took it’s sweet old time getting here, putting everyone a little behind.

Farmers are planting later, construction jobs got started later than planned, and boaters didn’t get on the water as soon as they had hoped.

The good news is that Summer is finally here!

Everything running behind means that when something breaks, it needs fixed now!

Of course, I don’t have to tell you that!

Whether you have a skid loader, tractor, generator, mower, or manlift, if you live in Indiana, Kubota engines are everywhere!

So, what do you do when your equipment with a Kubota engine has a problem?

Where is the closest Indiana Kubota dealer?

Who can you trust with your Kubota engine replacement and repair needs?

Trust Advanced Engine to be your Indiana Kubota dealer.

Advanced Engine in Plymouth, Indiana has the answer for you!

Having been a premier engine builder in Indiana Kubota engine repair has become one of our cornerstones.

While we rebuild all makes and models of engines and are dealers for several makes, we make it a point to be the best Indiana Kubota engine dealer!

Whether you need a water pump, cylinder head, or a complete Kubota engine, we can help solve your problems.

Advanced Engine stocks many common parts for Kubota engines including water pumps, glow plugs, filters, and even complete cylinder heads!  Our cylinder heads bran new castings with all new components in them.

Any available upgrades have been done such as raising the valve recession to improve cold starting.

Even though they are new heads, we still magnaflux, and pressure test each one to be sure that our customers don’t have any problems!

Advanced Engine is a long time member of the Engine Rebuilders Association, which means we have all of the latest support and training behind us.

Indiana Kubota engine owners have trusted Advanced Engine for parts and service for many years.

You can rest assured that Advanced Engine will steer you in the right direction for all of your Kubota engine needs.

Is engine recycling right for you?

Who should consider engine recycling?

I never really though about engine recycling until several years ago I was driving down interstate 65 south of Indianapolis.  As I was motoring down the road, a state trooper passed me and as he did, he looked at me and waved his hand back and forth in front of his face as if there was a bad smell in the air.  He did this because there was and it was coming from the back of my truck!  As I looked in my mirror, there was a huge cloud of smoke behind me.  Of course I already knew this, that’s why I was driving back to Indiana, to change the engine.  Have you ever had a situation like that?  Maybe, maybe not, but we have all at least seen a vehicle like the truck I was driving!  I’m here to tell you that it’s not the most fun being in that situation!

Your vehicle or machine may not leave a cloud of smoke behind everywhere it goes, but does it have puff of blue out the exhaust every now and then?  Does it seem like it just doesn’t have the power it used to have?  Maybe the fuel economy isn’t as good as it was when you first purchased it?  With the high fuel prices we have today, that can be a killer to your bank account!  When you start your vehicle in the morning does it “rattle” for a few minutes?  Just maybe the oil fairy comes and steals some oil every night!  Well, there really is no oil fairy, but the reason you have to keep adding oil even though it doesn’t appear to be leaking could be because your engine is burning the oil.  Any of these situations indicate that it’s time for something to be repaired or replaced.  So, what does any of this have to do with recycling?  Everything!  You could buy a new vehicle or you could have your engine rebuilt.  Most don’t realize it, but rebuilding your engine not only saves you money, but it’s better for the environment too!  Essentially you are participating in engine recycling!

 

What are the environmental benefits of engine recycling?

Remember the 3 R’s from elementary school?  Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.  When you rebuild your engine you are taking part in all three!  A rebuilt engine runs more efficiently so less fuel is consumed, reducing the amount of fuel used.  Old worn out engines typically burn and leak motor oil too, so when you choose engine recycling with Advanced Engine, you also reduce the amount of oil that is used!  When you have your engine rebuilt at Advanced Engine, The major components such as blocks, cylinder heads, and crankshafts are normally re-conditioned so that they can be reused.  At Advanced Engine, the parts that are not recondition-able such as pistons, most valves, and most oil pumps are sent to a recycling center to be melted down and made into something else.

At recent study by the University of Michigan (2008) developed a life-cycle model (LCA) to investigate the energy savings and pollution prevention that are achieved  in the United States through remanufacturing a midsized automotive gasoline engine compared to an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) manufacturing a new one.

Remanufactured engines are produced with an average of:

  • 75% less energy
  • 80% fewer carbon dioxide emissions
  • 68% carbon monoxide (CO) reductions
  • 78% nitrogen oxide (NOx) reductions
  • 77% sulfur oxide (SOx) reductions
  • 55% non-methane hydrocarbon reductions
  • 58%Raw material consumption reduction
  • 76% Solid waste generation reduction

Along with the environmental benefits of remanufactured engines over new engines, this study also includes an economic comparison of new versus remanufactured automotive engines. The price savings for the consumer is between 30% and 53% for a remanufactured engine, with the greatest savings realized when the remanufactured engine is purchased directly from the remanufacturer.  Other benefits to engine recycling are outlined in a video produced by the Engine Repower Council found here: http://www.enginerebuilder.org/video/index.html

 

Why Use Advanced Engine for your Engine Recycling?

While there are many options available when it comes to what shop to use when you rebuild an engine, Advanced Engine is the most trusted shop for engine recyclingAdvanced Engine in Plymouth, Indiana goes beyond the standard when it comes to keeping the environment clean!  We use many environment friendly chemical such as Soyl industrial hand cleaner and the SafeWasher from Cintas.  Advanced Engine also recycles the used fluids that are found in the engines we rebuild.  You can rest assured that most of the discarded components from your engine such as pistons, pins, camshafts, valves, and guides will be recycled instead of tossed in a landfill somewhere.  Our jet washer is on a timer so that the heat is shut off every night and on the weekends, saving precious energy!  We even use a Ford F-150 with an Ecoboost engine to conserve the fuel used during deliveries.  As you can see, there are many advantages of engine recycling and the place to do it at is Advanced Engine!  Next time you have a cloud of smoke, clunk, or rattle in your engine, give us a call to see how we can help you save the planet by recycling your engine!