Looking for a rebuilt engine for your Kubota or Bobcat? Need a new Issuz or Perkins diesel engine? Congrats you have come to the right place. Advanced Engine of Plymouth, Indiana serving the entire US.

Superior John Deere Parts and Service

Advanced engine offers a complete line of after market John deere parts and service.See a list of the parts we carry... More »


Engine Block Surfacing with Rottler S86A CNC Automatic Surfacing Machine

Resurfacing Engine Block with Rottler S86A CNC Automatic Surfacing Machine

Cylinder heads and blocks may need to be resurfaced to restore flatness or to improve the surface finish, or milled to change the deck height for a variety of reasons.

Most typically, surfacing is necessary to restore surface finish and flatness – both of which are essential for late model engines with MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) head gaskets.

Surfacing is likewise important when working with new blocks.

Resurfacing the engine block is needed to establish the desired deck height and piston clearance.

In addition, new heads may need surfacing to achieve the desired compression ratio and to make sure they are flat.
To achieve the best engine surfacing / block resurfacing results, we at Advanced Engine rely on

CNC automatic surfacing machinery from Rottler Manufacturing.

Why Rottler CNC Automatic Surfacing Machine?

Block surfacing is a key function of most Rottler equipment.

This leading manufacturer of block surfacing equipment had dedicated automatic, manual and CNC Engine Block surfacers, as well as multi-purpose machining centers that boast block surfacing capabilities as just one of many other machine operations.

They industry leading equipment features the ability to Deck blocks, Surface heads, true lifter bores, & automatically set milling to size.

Engine Block Surfacing with Rottler S86A CNC Automatic Surfacing Machine

This Rottler S86A in one of 7 in the world.

Why the Rottler S86A Engine Block Surfacing Machine for Advanced Engine?

The Rottler S86A machines combines cutting edge control technology with proven traveling column machine tool dry surfacing technology provides Advance Engine of Plymouth, Indiana with the world’s most advanced surfacing machines available today.

In fact, they are only 7 of these machines on the planet.

Only 1 in the Midwest.

While Advanced Engine is located in a small town in Indiana, it serves customers from around the globe.

The traveling column design of the Rottler S86A is consistent with the manufacturer’s proven design for decades in Rottler engine block machining centers.

The machinery is compact and reduces floor space requirements, all while improving accuracy of surface finish.

The S86A is designed for surfacing from the smallest to large heavy duty diesel heads and blocks.

The programmable downfeed with multiple passes is ideal when large amounts of material need to be removed in one set up. Angle milling and weld removal are also easily done in one cycle.

Direct Drive Ball Screws and Linear Roller Bearing Slideways on vertical and horizontal movements combine to give precise motion control resulting in precision surface finish.

Full Steel Enclosure surrounds the machine and keeps the work area clean and free of chips and protects operators from moving machine parts.

Electrical Enclosure mounted on the side of the machine allows the back of the machine to be installed against a wall reducing floor space requirements






Engine Block Surfacing with Rottler S86A CNC Automatic Surfacing Machine

The engine block typically sits on this specializes cart-rack prior to surfacing.

What is Block Surfacing?

Also known as, decking, it is used for the machine process that trues the head-gasket surface of the block.

Most often, the objective of decking is to end up with a flat surface cut that is parallel with the center line of the crankshaft and at the correct angle to the cylinder bores.

Another use for block surfacing when building a V-8 is to make sure the surface of each deck is the same distance from the crankshaft.

Decking can also be used to increase the compression ratio by reducing the quench volume and bringing the piston closer to the top of the bore when at top dead center


What is Cylinder Head Resurfacing?

As an industrial engine rebuilder, cylinder head resurfacing comes with the territory.

It is one of the jobs that is typically required when rebuilding an engine or reconditioning a cylinder head.

It is an extremely important to the long term durability of the engine.

Cylinder head resurfacing delivers a surface finish that is put on the head and engine block, which affects the head gasket’s ability to cold seal fluids and combustion gases.

This is the only Rottler S 86A Automatic Surfacing Machine in the Midwest, and 1 of only 7 in the world.

What you should know about a compact loader

Can you imagine having to limit the job site tools you need because of availability?

Nowadays, you don’t have to wait for a tool to be available, they’re everywhere you look.

When you’re trying to match a tool to a job, there are some things you need to keep in mind.

There are different types of loaders out there.

Let’s break it down, shall we?

What kind of loader is this? Simple.

It’s a loader that is closely related to the skid-steer.

Keep in mind these loaders use all four of their wheels to steer, so they’re perfect for jobs that need a little versatility.

This type of loader offers low ground pressure.

It’s a helpful loader to get through those hard road conditions (or where there may not even be a road).

For simplicity reasons, this loader is simple and does what the name says it does.

The great part of a skid steer loader is the cab often adds new levels of comfort. Imagine heat and air conditioning while you finish an outside job.

Don’t let the name scare you because this mini loader can do a lot that other loaders cannot do.

Because it’s a “mini” loader, it can go almost anywhere you need it to go.

Know what kind of work conditions you’re dealing with.

  • The type of compact loader you will choose depends on what kind of conditions you’ll be working under.

If it boils down to a paved surface, skid-steer and all-wheel-steer loaders are going to be your best choice.

This is because these types of loaders do well on paved surfaces.

  • When you need something dug and loaded, you’ll want to consider the other loaders available.

For the wet and muddy situations, compact truck loaders are your best bet.

Know what your lifting and digging needs boil down to.

The type of compact loader you choose will also boil down to what kind of lifting and digging needs you have.

Your loader will either have a radius lift path or a vertical lift path.
When choosing a compact loader with a vertical lift path, the loader has the potential to easily clear anything you need done at a full height.

When looking at a radius lift path compact loader, you are going to find these trucks are great for jobs where the working height is at lower or middle height ranges.

Owning a compact loader versus renting one

When it comes to owning a compact loader versus renting, it boils down to how often you use it.

If you’re only going to use it once, it makes more sense to rent it.

However, if you’re going to be using it more often, you will get a return of investment much quicker!

And, if your engine ever breaks down, remember that Advanced Engine is here to fix it.

Should I replace my Kubota Engine or Repair my Kubota Engine?

Ultimately the decision to replace or repair your Kubota Engine comes down to three main factors:

(1) What is causing the Kubota engine failure?

(2) Do you want to hire the replacement / repair out to Advanced Engine, or do it yourself.

(3) What is it going to cost you in terms of time and dollars.

In this blog post, we will address each of this factors independently.

Engine Valve Head Fracture at Stem To Head Radius

Head Fracture - Valve Fracture at Stem to Head Radius - Advanced Engine

Understanding Engine Valve Head Failure

One of the most common engine valve head fractures is the failure at stem to head radius. This is very important to remember because since the least common result of valve failure is the valve itself, you must always make sure you can identify the root cause of a fracture prior to replacing the engine valve (s).

While a small part compared to a whole engine, a valve stem fracture (VSF) will typically results in considerable and costly engine damage. This is especially true for double overhead cam, four valve per cylinder engine designs.
The majority of VSFs are due to one way bending, although two way bending and reversed bending by rotation will also sometime occur. As mentioned earlier, the most common stem fracture appears as a valve head to stem breakage in the region of the junction of the head radius and the stem , see Photo 1.
Head Fracture - Valve Fracture at Stem to Head Radius - Advanced Engine

Photo 1. Typical valve stem fracture at the underhead radius and stem junction. The stem fracture face is
usually in good condition, while the valve head fracture face is typically too damaged to be of use.

Photo 1. Typical valve stem fracture at the under-head radius and stem junction. The stem fracture face is usually in good condition, while the valve head fracture face is typically too damaged to be of use.










What about a Engine Valve Head Fractures At Stem On A Welded 2 Piece Design?

Even when the stem is a welded two piece design, this type of fracture does not occur at the weld, but typically closer down towards the head. The stem is often drawn up into the head and the fracture face remains undamaged, while the valve head typically drops into the cylinder and is too damaged for the fracture face to provide evidence.


As a result, we at Advanced Engine can determine the cause of valve stem fracture is rarely a manufacturing or materials fault and nearly always an operational fault.
Some of the this that will cause this type of VSF are all mechanical, including wear and breakage, which have nothing to do with the combustion chamber environment.


The Top 3 Most Common Causes for Engine Valve Head Fracture at Stem To Head Radius

  • Excessive spring pressure
  • Piston to valve contact bending valve
  • Excessive seat to guide roll-out.

These breaks at the stem are diagnosed as “Impact Failure” , meaning there is an appearance of an impact as the starting point of the break. This types of breaks are sudden, or “Fatigue Failure” which means that the material got weaker overtime, types  after thousands of cycles, starting out small and eventually breaking.

Other Engine Valve Head Fracture at Stem To Head Radius Causes:

  • Engine overspeed.
  • Incorrect valve timing.
  • Sticking valve stem.

Why are some exhaust manifold gaskets slotted?

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets Advanced Engine Fel-Pro

Engine Tech Tips : Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

Overview: Have you every wondered why some exhaust manifold gaskets have slots? This video from Fel-Pro with blog commentary from Advanced Engine tells you why.

The Advanced Engine Challenge:

Sometimes as part of a repair you will need to remove the exhaust manifold. While a fairly simple task to do, putting it all back together could take a bit longer then you want. Slotted exhaust manifolds like the ones from Fel-Pro make it easier to slide the exhaust manifold gasket into place without having to deal will aligning the bolts, gasket and manifold.

The Advanced Engine Solution:

The slots on the edge of the Fel-Pro Exhaust gasket allow you to put two bolts in place first. And, then slide the gasket in. This saves time, energy, and frustration. To see it in action watch the video below compliments of Fel-Pro. And remember, if you have questions about exhaust manifold gaskets, or Engine Repair in general, please do not hesitate to contact Advanced Engine.

Isuzu engine parts and Advanced Engine!

Isuzu engine logo

Isuzu engine parts are offered by Advanced Engine!


At Advanced Engine we understand that Isuzu Engine parts can be hard to find!  For years we struggled to find the right parts, just like you probably do.  We have a regular customer that used to be a Hydra Mac skid loader dealer and he was always calling us for machine work and parts on these engines.  Many of these units have Isuzu Engines in them.  We were seeing more and more demand for Isuzu Engine parts so we decided to check into becoming a dealer.  Not to long after that we became official!

Isuzu started manufacturing diesel engines in 1936 and have been a leader in diesel technology ever since!  Isuzu Engines not only lead the industry in quality and efficiency, but also in building engines that reduce emissions.  Advanced Engine believes in conserving our natural resources, so Isuzu Engine and Advanced Engine are a natural match.

New Kubota Engines - Izusu Engine Parts - Perkins engines

You may wonder, “where would I find an Isuzu engine being used”.  The answer is; everywhere!  Isuzu engines are found in many irrigation power units, Excavators, skid loaders, and reefer units.  In fact, Hitachi uses Isuzu engines almost exclusively in their excavators.  John Deere uses Isuzu engines in many of their excavators as well.  Some older model Bobcat skid loaders used Isuzu engines.

Being an Isuzu engine dealer, we understand that Isuzu engine parts can be expensive.  Advanced Engine works to keep our parts reasonably priced.  One way we do this is by offering aftermarket parts as well as OEM parts.  If you need Isuzu engine parts but don’t want to pay the high price for genuine Isuzu parts, we do offer quality aftermarket parts for some common Isuzu engines!  After 30 plus years in the engine rebuilding business, you can rest assured that Advanced Engine will only sell parts that meet strict quality standards.  These high consistent high standards prove that even our aftermarket brands can hold up to stresses that an industrial engine experiences.

Kubota Isuzu Perkins Engine Rebuilders


Next time you are looking for Isuzu engine parts, don’t hesitate, call Advanced Engine and let us find what you need!  Our hours are Monday thru Friday 8am to 5pm eastern time.  You can also visit us at facebook.com/AdvancedEngine.

Ask Advanced Engine: Engine Balancing, Is it really necessary?

Why is Engine Balancing Important?

Whether your application is internal, external, 28 or 50 oz., the balance of an engine depends on the original factory requirements; however, it is possible to build a combination with the balance of an engine different than how it came from the factory. It is important that you know your engine balancing options before making any component purchases.

Engine balancing goes hand-in-hand with performance engine building. Balancing your engine reduces internal loads and vibrations that stress metal and may eventually lead to component failure. However, is it worth the time and effort for mild performance applications, everyday passenger car engines or low-buck engine rebuilds?

From a technical point of view, every engine regardless of the application or its selling price can benefit from balancing. A smoother-running engine is also a more powerful engine; less energy is wasted by the crank as it thrashes about in its bearings, which translates into a little more usable power at the flywheel. Reducing engine vibration also reduces stress on motor mounts and external accessories, and in big over-the-road trucks, the noise and vibration the driver has to endure mile after mile.

What factors effect engine balancing?

Though all engines are balanced from the factory [some to a better degree than others], the original balance is lost when the pistons, connecting rods or crankshaft are replaced or interchanged with those from other engines. The factory balance job is based on the reciprocating weight of the OE pistons and rods. If any replacements or substitutions are made, there’s no guarantee the new or reconditioned parts will match the weights of the original parts closely enough to retain the original balance. Most aftermarket replacement parts are “balanced” to the average weight of the OEM parts, which may or may not be close enough to maintain a reasonable degree of balance inside the engine. Aftermarket crank kits are even worse and can vary considerably because of variations within engine families. If the cylinders are worn and a block needs to be bored to oversize, the larger replacement pistons may be heavier than the original ones. Some piston manufacturers take such differences into account when engineering replacement pistons and try to match “average” OE weights. But others do not.

Most high performance pistons are designed to be lighter than the OE pistons to reduce reciprocating weight for faster acceleration and higher rpm. Consequently, when pistons and rods are replaced there’s no way of knowing if balance is still within acceptable limits unless you check it.

If you’re building a stock engine for a passenger car or light truck that will spend most of its life loafing along at low rpm, your customer might question the value of balancing such an engine. But if you the customer value durability and smooth operation, the decision to balance should not be too difficult.

On the other hand, if you’re building a performance engine, a stroker engine or an engine that’s expected to turn a lot of RPM or run a lot of miles, balancing is an absolute must. No engine is going to survive long at high RPM if it’s out of balance. And no engine is going to last in a high mileage application if the crank is bending and flexing because of static or dynamic imbalances.

Forces in Action

To better understand the mechanics of engine  balancing, let’s look at the theory behind it. As everybody knows, a rotating object generates “centripetal force.” Centripetal force is an actual force or load generated perpendicular to the direction of rotation. Tie a rope to a brick and twirl it around and you’ll feel the pull of centripetal force generated by the “unbalanced” weight of the brick. The faster you spin it, the harder it pulls. In fact, the magnitude of the force increases exponentially with speed. Double the speed and you quadruple the force.

The centripetal force created by a crankshaft imbalance will depend upon the amount of imbalance and distance from the axis of rotation (which is expressed in units of grams, ounces or ounce-inches). A crankshaft with only two ounce-inches of imbalance at 2,000 rpm will be subjected to a force of 14.2 lbs. At 4,000 rpm, the force grows to 56.8 lbs.! Double the speed again to 8,000 rpm and the force becomes 227.2 lbs.

This may not sound like much when you consider the torque loads placed upon the crankshaft by the forces of combustion. But centripetal imbalance is not torque twisting the crank. It is a sideways deflection force that tries to bend the crank with every revolution. Depending on the magnitude of the force, the back and forth flexing can eventually pound out the main bearings or induce stress cracks that can cause the crank to snap.

Centripetal force should not be confused with “centrifugal” force, which is the tendency of an object to continue in a straight trajectory when released while rotating. Let go of the rope while you’re twirling the brick and the brick will fly off in a straight line.

As long as the amount of centripetal force is offset by an equal force in the opposite direction, an object will rotate with no vibration. Tie a brick on each end of a yardstick and you can twirl it like a baton because the weight of one brick balances the other. If we’re talking about a flywheel, the flywheel will spin without wobbling as long as the weight is evenly distributed about the circumference. A heavy spot at any one point, however, will create a vibration because there’s no offsetting weight to balance out the centripetal force.

Every object wants to rotate about its own center of gravity. Toss a chunk of irregular shaped metal into the air while giving it a spin and it will automatically rotate about its exact center of gravity. If the chunk of metal happens to be a flywheel, the center of gravity should be the flywheel’s axis. As long as the center of gravity for the flywheel and the center of rotation on the crankshaft coincide, the flywheel will spin without vibrating. But if there’s a heavy spot on the flywheel, or if the flywheel isn’t mounted dead center on the crank, the center of gravity and axis of rotation will be misaligned and the resulting imbalance will create a vibration.

Physics Applied

How does all this scientific jargon translate into the real dynamics of a spinning crankshaft? A crankshaft, like a flywheel, is a heavy rotating object. What’s more, it also has a bunch of piston and rod assemblies reciprocating back and forth along its axis that greatly complicate the problem of keeping everything in balance.

With inline four and six cylinder engines, and flat horizontally opposed fours and sixes (like Porsche and Subaru), all pistons move back and forth in the same plane and are typically phased 180° apart so crankshaft counterweights are not needed to balance the reciprocating components. Balance can be achieved by carefully weighing all the pistons, rods, wrist pins, rings and bearings, then equalizing them to the lightest weight.

On V6, V8, V10 and V12 engines, it’s a different story because the pistons are moving in different planes. This requires crankshaft counterweights to offset the reciprocating weight of the pistons, rings, wrist pins and upper half of the connecting rods.

The difference between Internal vs. External Engine Balancing

With “internally balanced” engines, the counterweights themselves handle the job of offsetting the reciprocating mass of the pistons and rods. “Externally balanced” engines, on the other hand, have additional counterweights on the flywheel and/or harmonic damper to assist the crankshaft in maintaining balance. Some engines have to be externally balanced because there isn’t enough clearance inside the crankcase to handle counterweights of sufficient size to balance the engine. This is true of engines with longer strokes and/or large displacements.

If you’re rebuilding an engine that is internally balanced, the flywheel and damper have no effect on engine balance and can be balanced separately. But with externally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper must be mounted on the crank prior to balancing. You should find out what type of engine balance you have (internal or external), and be cautious about indexing the position of the flywheel if you have to remove it later for resurfacing. Owners of externally balanced engines should also learn about installing different flywheels or harmonic dampers and how it can upset balance.

In recent years, the auto makers have added balance shafts to many four and six cylinder engines to help cancel out crankshaft harmonics. The counter-rotating balance shaft helps offset vibrations in the crank created by the firing sequence of the engine. On these motors, make sure the balance shaft is correctly “phased” or timed to the rotation of the crank. If the shaft is out of sync, it will amplify rather than diminish engine vibrations. Balance shafts are not a substitute for normal engine balancing, nor do they reduce the vibration and stress the crankshaft itself experiences as it turns.

The process of balancing begins by equalizing the reciprocating mass in each of the engine’s cylinders. This is done by weighing each piston on a sensitive digital scale to determine the lightest one in a set. The other pistons are then lightened to match that weight by milling or grinding metal off a non-stressed area such as the wrist pin boss. The degree of precision to which the pistons are balanced will vary from one engine builder to another, and depends to some extent on the application. But generally speaking pistons are balanced to within plus or minus 0.5 grams of one another. Next the rods are weighed, but only one end at a time. A special support is used so that the big ends of all the rods can be weighed and compared, then the little ends. As with the pistons, weights are equalized by grinding away metal to within 0.5 grams. It’s important to note that the direction of grinding is important. Rods should always be ground in a direction perpendicular to the crankshaft and wrist pin, never parallel. If the grinding scratches are parallel to the crank, they may concentrate stress causing hairline cracks to form.

On V6 and V8 engines, the 60 or 90 degree angle between the cylinder banks requires the use of “bob weights” on the rod journals to simulate the reciprocating mass of the piston and rod assemblies. Inline four and six cylinder crankshafts do not require bob weights. To determine the correct weight for the bob weights, the full weight of a pair of rod bearings and the big end of the connecting rod, plus half the weight of the little end of the rod, piston, rings, wrist pin (and locks if full floating) plus a little oil are added together (100 percent of the rotating weight plus 50 percent of the reciprocating weight). The correct bob weights are then assembled and mounted on the crankshaft rod journals.

The crankshaft is then placed on the balancer and spun to determine the points where metal needs to be added or removed. The balancer indexes the crank and shows the exact position and weight to be added or subtracted. The electronic brain inside the balancer head does the calculations and displays the results. The machines we have use graphical displays that make it easy to see exactly where the corrections are needed. If the crank is heavy, metal is removed by drilling or grinding the counterweights. Drilling is usually the preferred means of lightening counterweights, and a balancer that allows the crank to be drilled while still on the machine can be a real time saver.

If the crank is too light, which is usually the case on engines with stroker cranks or those that are being converted from externally balanced to internally balanced, heavy metal (a tungsten alloy that is 1.5 times as heavy as lead) is added to the counterweights. This is usually done by drilling the counterweights, then press fitting and welding the heavy metal plugs in place. An alternate technique is to tap the hole and thread a plug into place. Drilling the holes sideways through the counterweights parallel to the crank rather than perpendicular to the crank is a technique many prefer because it prevents the metal from being flung out at high rpm.

After drilling, the crankshaft is again spun on the balancer to determine if additional corrections are required. If the crank is for an externally balanced engine (such as a big block Chevy), the balancing will be done with the flywheel and damper installed. On internally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper can be balanced separately, or installed on the crank and balanced as an assembly once the crank itself has been balanced.

New machinery has been introduced that both simplifies the balancing process and increases the accuracy of the job. Electronic equipment that allows accurate measurement of not only the amount of unbalance force, but also accurately reports the unbalanced vector position is now available to engine rebuilders. Typically, balancing machines have assumed that the unbalance force was equally opposed, so they would require the technician to correct the excessive amounts of unbalance on the excess side to the point of making them equal. Technicians have had to “stair-step” the corrections equally until the final tolerance was attained.

Technology such as the latest engine balancing machines available eliminates this requirement. Software and hardware are combined to allow radical differences to be reported at each end of the crankshaft (including any rotational positioning or vector position of the unbalanced force). Because the position and unbalance amounts are reported correctly the technician can make changes to the crankshaft with confidence that he will not over shoot the correction. In most cases the required cycles of analysis and correction are reduced by 80 to 90 percent.

The unbalance amount and position are imported into a special computer program called “Heavy Metal Analysis” (HMA). This program allows the technician to plot the position and amount of material that will be required to correct the crankshaft. The program lets rebuilders create multiple scenarios based on rotation and radius position, weight amounts and sizes of Mallory – all of which can be simulated without having to cut the first chip.

How long does it take to balance an engine?

How long does it take to actually balance an engine? A typical Chevy small block V8 might take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half depending on how much work is needed and the degree of accuracy you’re trying to achieve. You’re obviously going to spend more time on a motor that’s going into a NASCAR Winston Cup car than one that’s going into Grandma’s grocery getter.

Though a balancing accuracy of plus or minus one gram is typically good enough for most production street engines, many balancers today can achieve balancing accuracies in the tenths or even hundredths of a gram!

The most time-consuming part of the job is weighing and matching the pistons and rods. A four cylinder engine takes half as much time for this step as a V8. The next most time consuming part is making up the bob weights for a V6 or V8. This step isn’t needed with a straight six or four. The actual setup on the machine takes only a few minutes, and the initial spin and readings take only a couple of minutes more. The time required to perform the necessary weight corrections will depend on the crank (weight removal goes much faster than adding weight). And if you’ve done your work carefully, the final spin will require no further corrections because the balance of the engine will be right on the mark.

If you have any questions about engine balancing, please do not hesitate to contact Advanced Engine – Your engine rebuilder resource (574) 784-8267

See Advanced Engine in Action

At Advanced Engine, we sell new Isuzu and Perkins engines, completely remanufactured Kubota engines, as well as, OEM Kubota engine parts.


Thanks for visiting Advanced Engine. We are rapidly expanding our Perkins selection of parts available for next day shipping every day!

Currently we have many parts available like:


*Water pumps                   *Crankshafts (New & Reman)

*Oil pumps                          *Cylinder Heads (New & Reman)

*Fuel injectors                     *Connecting Rods (Reman)

*Turbochargers (New)       *Engine Kits


All these parts help you replace the high cost OEM parts from your Perkins dealer!

Feel free to look around, and feel free to use the form below each page to ask questions. Also, do not forget to like Advanced Engine on Facebook.

Rebuilt Kubota Engines and Geniune Kubota Engine Parts

Kubota Engines and Rebuilt Kubota Engine Parts
Thanks for visiting Advanced Engine.
The home the fastest rebuilt Kubota Engines and Geniune Kubota Engine Parts.
We are rapidly expanding our Kubota engine parts selection and making them available for next day shipping every day!

Why we sell Kubota Engine Parts?

While we would love to rebuild your Kubota Engine for your forklifts or skid-loaders, we realize that sometimes all you need is an extra genuine Kubota part to get back to work.
This is why, at Advanced Engine of Plymouth, Indiana we currently have many OEM Kubota engine parts available.

Here is a listed of the most requested ones.

*Water pumps                   *Crankshafts (New & Reman)

*Oil pumps                          *Cylinder Heads (New & Reman)

*Fuel injectors                     *Connecting Rods (Reman)

*Turbochargers (New)       *Engine Kits


All these parts are genuine, but, since we are not on commission, buying Kubota Engine parts from Advanced Engine helps you replace the high cost OEM parts from your Kubota dealer.

Feel free to look around, and use the form below each page to ask questions.

Also, do not forget to like Advanced Engine on Facebook.

Ask about rebuilt Kubota Engines and Kubota Engine Parts.

If you cannot find the rebuilt Kubota Engine your are looking for, or need a specific part number give us a call.

(574) 784-8267

We are always glad to help you solve your Kubota Engines challenges.

By the way, mention your saw our website – and get entered to win a free gift from Advanced Engine.